For clarification, there is nothing wrong with the testors paint. The chrome base I used was not formulated to be a base coat. Even after knocking the surface down a little, it’s still not happy to have any other coating covering it (although I never tried to clear coat it...).
Just wanted to be clear that I’m not complaining about the testors.
I’m still playing around with the rustoleum “bright coat” metallic finish. You may remember the first post:
The first thing I’ll say about my continued experimenting with this stuff is,
no, it won’t do spectraflame imitations.
I used the Fairlady shell from the first post, just to see what would happen; would it work?...or be a waste of paint?
Waste of paint it is! Using TESTORS transparent green spray paint was an eye opener. It acted like green blood, to be honest, running, pooling, collecting in the details and forming sticky drops at the low spots.
I had sprayed an old MBX F-50 with the bright coat paint, hoping the test would work, but, nope. So, I took some toothpaste and used it like rubbing compound to knock down the shine, hoping that would help.
Some of it looked great, but...
...there were several places where the paint just wouldn’t stick.. I actually watched that grey patch on the spoiler form, get too heavy, and run down through the already pooling paint on the beltline and drag it along...lol.
It was worth doing jut to find out what works and what doesn’t.
So, the Ferrari goes back into the stripper jar to have another go at a new coat of paint. Maybe red this time, it IS a Ferrari...
Bonus(?) photo of the same transparent green paint sprayed on top of the white paint on this HWs P-1. Came out more bluish than green.
I had given this one a going over with the toothpaste too, just to see how the headlight tampos would hold up. Conclusion? White paint is not the best base over which to try transparent/candy colors.
I’m going to try using flat or satin colors as a base next time.